It has been pointed out that the electric car has been invented, not to save the planet, but to save the car industry. As the world pushes for more sustainable transportation in an effort to curb our current collision course towards climate catastrophe.

The largest industrial polluter is the fossil fuel industry, specifically the oil, gas, and coal sectors.

BUT, at this moment the textile industry is the second largest industrial polluter, producing 97 million tons of waste annually, including 18 million tons of leftover textiles, it’s responsible for 20% of the world's water pollution and 35% of microplastics in oceans come from clothing. Textiles are responsible for more than 10% of the world's carbon emissions.

So why have we not pushed for textiles to innovate to save themselves? That’s because the textile industry is busy saving the oil industry.

While there may not be direct ownership, the interdependence between the fast fashion industry and the oil and gas sector is clear. The continued use of synthetic fibres in fast fashion supports the demand for fossil fuels, even as other sectors, such as transportation, transition towards more sustainable energy sources.

The media paints a picture that I cannot fathom, in which, we the consumer have an insatiable appetite for synthetic fibres, that we literally lust for polyester! But is this really the case or are synthetics just what is increasingly available? Why are these textiles produced at such a low cost? Surely extracting fossil fuels from deep in the planet, a finite resource, turning it into petroleum and then treating it with an incredibly dangerous and deadly cocktail of chemicals is far more costly than wool? A fibre that has almost become a by-product of meat production? Why do major fast fashion brands prefer to work with chemical compounds which are dangerous to the health of their workers, the environment and their consumers?

Could it be timing? there is no seasonality for fossil fuels, they are extracted every single day, unlike cotton or flax which is harvested once a year.

Could it be polyester’s ability to fall apart quickly thereby forcing the consumer to repurchase more quickly?

Or could it be something bigger, something to do with the fashion moguls, oil tycoons and the monopolisation of the worlds free market. After all, cotton and linen seeds cannot be solely owned by a select group of individuals. They did try with GM or genetically modified crops (a topic for another video) but there has always been seed banks, heritage varieties and pragmatic farmers to stifle that to a degree. In fact, you could grow your own fibre right now in your backyard or even in a pot on your balcony (your already doing it if you have a rose or some mint). Consider instead, that the production of synthetic fibres for the textile industry currently accounts for 1.35% of global oil consumption. This exceeds the annual oil consumption of Spain. BP’s energy scenario presumes plastic production will account for 95% of future growth in demand for oil, while the International Energy Agency (IEA) predicts petrochemicals will represent up to 50% of growth in oil demand by 2050

The World’s Increasing Use of Synthetic Fabrics and Its Impact on Climate and Human Health

The rise of synthetic fabrics in the global fashion industry has been one of the most significant developments in textile manufacturing over the past century. Synthetic fibres such as polyester, nylon, and acrylic are now ubiquitous in the fashion industry, accounting an estimated 65% of textile production worldwide, a number which is expected to rise to nearly 80% by 2030. While these materials have revolutionized the garment industry by providing alternatives to natural fibres like cotton, wool, and silk, their widespread use has raised critical concerns regarding their environmental impact and potential risks to human health.

Monopoly

The monopolization of both fossil fuel and textile companies has played a significant role in the expansion of synthetic fibres in today’s market. This phenomenon, where a few large companies dominate the production and control of raw materials, resources, and manufacturing processes, has contributed to the widespread availability, affordability, and demand for synthetic fibres. Today we’re discussing how the monopolization in both sectors have fuelled the expansion of synthetic fibres.

The Rise of Synthetic Fabrics: A Shift in Materials

The origins of synthetic fabrics date back to the early 20th century, but their widespread adoption began in earnest during and after World War II. The development of synthetic fibres, represented a significant breakthrough in textile manufacturing, moving production off the farm and into the lab. Nylon, created Wallace Carothers, a chemist at DuPont a major American chemical company in 1935, was the first entirely synthetic fibre made from petroleum-based chemicals. It’s made by extracting a chemical called diamine from crude oil (petroleum), mixing it with adipic acid and other polymers which can then be heated and spun. As the molten polymer threads are exposed to air they harden and become a usable fibre. Nylon was initially used to replace silk in items like stockings, which had been in short supply due to World War 1 restrictions. The material's durability, stretch, and ease of care made it an attractive alternative.

Following the success of nylon, there was an explosion of textile innovation. Other synthetic fibres like polyester, acrylic, and spandex were developed in the mid-20th century. The development of which was in large part thanks to the second world war which greedily devoured raw materials for uniforms, transport and of course weapons. The synthetic fibre manufacturers espoused numerous advantages of their new textile formulations over natural fabrics: they were cheaper to produce, more durable, less prone to wrinkling, and easier to maintain. A mass propaganda campaign condemned natural fibres as tricky, unreliable, hard to care for and uncomfortable. Obviously, these claims were very powerful in the minds of the average person, the post-war era saw a surge in mass production of synthetic textiles, coinciding with the rapid growth of the global fashion industry and increasing consumer demand for affordable, low-maintenance clothing.

The Role of Patents and Trademarks in Synthetic Fiber Development

A significant factor in the rapid transition from natural to synthetic fibres was the role of patents and trademarks. These legal protections allowed inventors and companies to safeguard their innovations, ensuring that they could capitalize on the commercial potential of new synthetic fibres. The creation of synthetic fibres was often the result of extensive research and investment, and patents played a crucial role in protecting these investments, enabling companies to maintain a competitive edge in the marketplace.

Dupont patented Nylon in 1935, effectively making it the first commercially successful synthetic fibre. DuPont's patent gave the company exclusive rights to the production and sale of nylon until the patent’s expiry in 1954. This 20-year period of exclusivity allowed DuPont to establish nylon as a dominant material in the fashion industry, particularly for products like stockings, parachutes, and outerwear.

Patents not only protected the rights of inventors, or the companies those inventors worked for, but also incentivized the creation of new materials by offering companies a financial stake in the commercialization these innovations. As the patent system allowed for monopolies on specific synthetic fibres, it accelerated the development of more efficient production processes, which helped bring the price of synthetic fabrics down and made them more accessible to manufacturers and consumers alike. As a result, synthetic fibres quickly supplanted natural fibres in many areas of the fashion industry, from everyday clothing to high-performance textiles.

Trademarking also played an important role in the growth of synthetic fibres. Companies like DuPont marketed their synthetic fibres under distinctive brand names—Nylon, Lycra, and Dacron—which helped establish consumer recognition and trust in these new materials. By trademarking these names, companies ensured that their products were seen as high-quality and technologically advanced, further promoting the transition from natural to synthetic. To this day consumers believe that synthetics are more affordable, modern, easy to care for and durable clothing options.

Today a similar level of Monopolization of Textile Companies and Synthetic Fibers production means that a few large textile companies, such as Inditex (the parent company of Zara), H&M, and Nike, dominate the global textile manufacturing market. These companies often have significant control over the entire textile supply chain, from design and production to distribution and retail. By controlling much of the supply chain, they can push for the mass production of synthetic fibres, which are cheaper to produce and more versatile in appearance than natural fibres.

Add to this, a market driven by rapid production cycles in which textile manufacturers to prefer synthetic fibres available at any time of the year no matter the season. Synthetic materials like polyester, nylon, and acrylic are not only more affordable but also more flexible in terms of availability, design, texture, and finish, making them perfect for the fast-paced demands of the industry.

The Part About Oil.

Synthetic fibres, like polyester, nylon, and acrylic, are derived from petrochemicals. Petrochemicals are produced from natural gas and crude oil. Synthetic fabric IS fossil Fuel.

To really understand how this works we need to become familiar with the idea of “feedstocks”.

Feedstocks are raw materials or substances that are used in the manufacturing or production of other products. In the textile industry, feedstocks refer to the raw materials that are used to create fibres, fabrics, and other textile products. These feedstocks can be natural or synthetic, and they undergo various processes to be transformed into the materials used to make clothing, couches and caravan curtains.

In the context of the petrochemical and energy industries, feedstocks are the basic materials that are processed or converted into more valuable chemicals, fuels, or other products. This has become an evolutionary process in which chemicals are restructured, mixed or metamorphosed into an entirely new chemical under a new alias. Because of this constant redefining of product including its new name and even new chemical structure, industry players can claim that they only contribute “indirectly” to the production of synthetic fibres and are far from responsible for any damage done to our environment, the workers or to the consumer.

Saudi Aramco

The company that produces the most fossil fuels is Saudi Aramco. As the Saudi Arabian national petroleum and natural gas company, Saudi Aramco is the world's largest corporate greenhouse gas emitter, having emitted almost 70 billion metric tons of carbon dioxide equivalent (GtCO₂) between 1965 and 2020. This significant emission level highlights Saudi Aramco's substantial role in global fossil fuel production and its impact on climate change.

Saudi Aramco has several connections to the textile and fashion industries, primarily through its investments in the chemicals sector and its role in Saudi Arabia's economic diversification strategy.

Chemicals Sector and Textile Industry: Saudi Aramco is a key player in the Saudi Arabian chemicals sector, which is a pillar of the Kingdom's Vision 2030 initiative. The chemicals sector, including petrochemicals and specialty chemicals, supports various industries, including textiles. Saudi Aramco's investments in large-scale projects like the $20 billion crude-to-chemicals (COTC) complex in partnership with SABIC contribute to the production of feedstocks used in textile manufacturing.
Downstream Integration: Saudi Aramco's expansion into chemicals and its 70% stake in SABIC accelerate its downstream growth strategy. This integration helps in producing high-value products, including advanced materials used in the textile industry. The King Salman Energy Park (SPARK) also allocates space for chemical industries, further supporting the textile sector.
Industry Events and Platforms: Saudi Aramco's involvement in industry events like the Saudi Stitch&Tex Expo highlights its support for the textile and garment machinery sector. This expo serves as a platform for manufacturers, merchants, and vendors to connect and collaborate, fostering growth in the textile industry.

While Saudi Aramco does not directly produce fashion or textile products, it does seem to be invested in the growth of oil and chemical based textile products. Its significant role in the chemicals sector and its support for industrial events indirectly contribute to the growth and development of the textile and fashion industries in Saudi Arabia and beyond.

Woodside

Woodside Energy is Australia's largest producer of crude oil. In 2024, the company reported a production of 193.9 million barrels of oil equivalent (mmboe), with projections for 2025 believed to be about the same.

Woodside Energy, as an oil and natural gas company, indirectly influences the textile industry by supplying raw materials for petrochemicals. These petrochemicals are crucial in the production of synthetic fibres like polyester and nylon, as well as in energy production that powers textile manufacturing. Although Woodside doesn't directly supply raw materials to textile companies, its role in producing oil and natural gas makes it a key part of the broader supply chain that supports the synthetic textile industry.

Interestingly, despite these contributions, Australia remains a net importer of oil, with only about 15% of refinery feedstock sourced domestically as of 2020–21.

***Also, I wrote and filmed this in February before the decision by the Albanese goverment to extend the North West Shelf to 2070. I am disgusted to say the least! If you are too, make sure that you email your local representative (I have) to make your voice heard on this issue!

https://www.gofundme.com/f/punters-are-getting-scammed-help-us-get-the-word-out

Honestly, I am not a chemist and trying to sort through the chemical compounds and the honestly hundreds of names and uses and trademarks and process patents was beyond my capabilities and felt like a rabbit’s warren of misinformation and hidden agendas.

According to the encyclopedia Britannica “The primary destination of crude oil is a refinery. There any combination of three basic functions is carried out:

(1) separating the many types of hydrocarbon present in crude oils into fractions of more closely related properties,

(2) chemically converting the separated hydrocarbons into more desirable reaction products, and

(3) purifying the products of unwanted elements and compounds. The main process for separating the hydrocarbon components of crude oil is fractional distillation.

Basically, Crude oil is extracted and then it is sent to refineries or Petrochemical Complexes where it is split into different components (fractions). Components needed to produce synthetic fibre. Components like Naphtha, Ethylene, Terephthalic Acid, Caprolactam, polyacrylonitrile, Acrylic Acid, acrylonitrile, Butadiene, Propylene, Benzene, hexamethylene diamine, adipic acid, ethylene and other hydrocarbons are all derived from Fossil Fuels. These chemicals are then used as feedstocks in the creation of synthetic textiles.

For example, polyester is made from ethylene glycol (produced from petroleum) and terephthalic acid (derived from petroleum or natural gas).

Acrylic is Made from acrylonitrile, which is derived from propylene.

Nylon, is produced using adipic acid and hexamethylenediamine, both derived from petroleum.

What is the difference between this and this, well this is wool so lots actually, but what if it wasn’t wool? What if it was acrylic? A petrochemical derived fibre that has closer to a plastic bag that wool from a sheep. What is the cost to plastic textiles? Could there be a risk to our health and safety?

Synthetic fabric is absolutely everywhere and yes all of it is plastic. From your carpets to your leggings, to your wedding dress and even the blanket knitted by your nanna, chances are these days its made of plastic created from a chemical concoction of petrol and acrylic acid.

Plastic textiles are to today what asbestos and lead were to previous modern generations. The question is, when are we going to wake up to the harm it causes us and do something about it?

Monopoly Again

Large fossil fuel companies, such as ExxonMobil, Shell, BP, and others, control vast reserves of crude oil and natural gas, which are used in synthetic fibre production. These companies dominate the upstream oil and gas industry, ensuring a consistent and relatively low-cost supply of naphtha, ethylene, and propane which are turned into fibre by companies like Indorama Ventures, Reliance Industries, BASF, Toray Industries, Honeywell (UOP), SABIC (Saudi Basic Industries Corporation), Shandong Ruyi Technology Group, Eastman Chemical Company, Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation, Invista (A subsidiary of Koch Industries) and DuPont.

Monopolies in the fossil fuel industry allow for economies of scale, where production costs are reduced due to large-scale extraction and refining. This helps keep the cost of petrochemical feedstocks low, which directly impacts the price of synthetic fibres like polyester and nylon. As large corporations control these resources, they can stabilize the market and dictate prices, making synthetic fibres more accessible to manufacturers.

Many fossil fuel companies have moved towards vertical integration, meaning they control not just the extraction of crude oil and natural gas, but also the refining and petrochemical production. This integration allows companies to directly supply the petrochemical feedstocks used to make synthetic fibres, creating a closed-loop system that gives them significant control over both the raw materials and the manufacturing processes.

Interdependence Between Fossil Fuel and Textile Monopolies

The monopolization of both fossil fuel and textile companies has created a synergistic relationship between the two industries. Large fossil fuel companies ensure a steady supply of cheap petrochemical feedstocks, which are crucial for synthetic fibre production. In turn, textile companies help drive the demand for these synthetic fibres by choosing them over natural fibres due to their low cost and mass-production feasibility. This interdependence has allowed the synthetic fibre market to expand significantly.

The domination of a few large companies in both the fossil fuel and textile industries reduces competition. As a result, these companies can set prices, control supply chains, and ensure that synthetic fibres continue to dominate the global textile market. New entrants or smaller companies face difficulty competing with such large, integrated corporations that have significant economies of scale and influence over both raw material and product pricing.

Globalization and Market Reach

Global Supply Chains: The global reach of both fossil fuel and textile monopolies has allowed synthetic fibres to be produced at lower costs and shipped worldwide. For example, textile giants can source synthetic fibres made from petrochemical feedstocks produced in one region (such as the Middle East or the U.S.) and send them to factories in Asia, where labour is cheaper. This global supply chain has made synthetic fibres readily available in nearly every market, fuelling their growth in both developed and emerging economies.
Standardization: As large companies dominate the market, they drive the standardization of synthetic fibres. Companies like DuPont (which developed Nylon) and Invista (which makes Lycra and CoolMax) play significant roles in defining the standards for synthetic fibre production. This standardization makes it easier for textile manufacturers to adopt synthetic fibres at scale, further entrenching their dominance in the market.

Marketing and Consumer Behaviour

Promoting Synthetic Fabrics: Large textile companies, with their substantial marketing budgets, have been able to influence consumer behaviour through advertising campaigns that promote the benefits of synthetic fibres. These fibres are marketed as durable, cost-effective, and low maintenance, which appeals to consumers looking for affordable and practical clothing options. The increased demand for affordable, functional, and long-lasting clothing has led to greater reliance on synthetic fibres in the global textile market.
Sustainability Claims: With increasing environmental concerns about the fashion industry, monopolistic textile companies are also capitalizing on the growing sustainability movement. Some have begun producing "eco-friendly" synthetic fibres, such as recycled polyester, derived from PET bottles or old garments. This clever marketing shift presents synthetic fibres as more sustainable, despite being produced by the petroleum industry, which further bolsters their market share.

Barriers to Entry for Smaller Competitors

Capital Requirements: The enormous capital investments required for large-scale oil extraction, refining, and petrochemical production create high barriers to entry for smaller competitors. Similarly, textile manufacturing requires substantial investments in machinery, labour, and infrastructure to produce fibres efficiently. This means that smaller players struggle to break into the market, further entrenching the dominance of major fossil fuel and textile corporations.
Price Pressure on Smaller Players: Smaller textile manufacturers often struggle to compete with the pricing power of major companies that control synthetic fibre production. These large companies can negotiate better prices for raw materials (like naphtha) from the oil and gas magnates and pass the cost savings onto consumers, leaving little room for smaller competitors.

The monopolization of fossil fuel companies and textile giants has played a significant role in the expansion of synthetic fibres in today’s market by:

Ensuring a cheap, consistent supply of petrochemical feedstocks (naphtha, ethylene, etc.) that are crucial for synthetic fibre production.
Facilitating the mass production and low-cost manufacturing of synthetic fibres, which are preferred by fast fashion companies and global supply chains.
Reducing competition and creating economies of scale that make synthetic fibres more affordable and accessible worldwide.

This monopolistic structure has pushed synthetic fibres, such as polyester, nylon, and acrylic, to dominate the textile industry, driving growth in the global market while making it more difficult for natural fibres to compete.

The role of corporations and capitalism has been crucial in accelerating the transition to synthetic fabrics. Patents, trademarks, vertical integration and closed loop systems have allowed companies to protect their innovations, monopolize production, and stimulate further development of these plastic materials. While synthetic fibres revolutionized the fashion industry, their environmental and health impacts demand that the industry shift back toward more sustainable alternatives.

The transition back from synthetic fabrics to natural materials is essential to mitigate the harm caused by fast fashion and ensure a healthier planet for us and future generations. Both the fashion industry and the Fossil Fuel industry must take responsibility for its environmental footprint and prioritize both sustainability and human health.

Moreover, the role of policymakers cannot be understated. By supporting legislation that incentivizes decentralisation of industry, sustainable practices and penalizes environmental damage, even when indirectly caused, governments can champion the transition towards greener alternatives.

We as consumers also need to play our part! When buying clothing, fabric, wool or any other textile, decide not to purchase synthetic polyester or acrylic. Go back to natural materials and discover just how incredible, varied, practical, beautiful, comfortable and easy to care for they actually are. So back to our question, how complicit are you?

Environmental Impact of Synthetic Fabrics

While synthetic fabrics brought many benefits to the textile industry, their widespread use has also resulted in significant environmental consequences. One of the most concerning aspects of synthetic fabrics is their reliance on fossil fuels. Synthetic fibres are derived from petroleum-based chemicals, making them a part of the global fossil fuel economy. The extraction, processing, and transportation of these resources contribute to greenhouse gas emissions, further exacerbating the climate crisis. For example, Nylon requires three times more energy than cotton to produce.

Moreover, synthetic fabrics are non-biodegradable. Unlike natural fibres, such as cotton or wool, which break down over time, synthetic fibres like polyester, nylon, and acrylic persist in the environment for hundreds of years. When synthetic garments are disposed of, either in landfills or through incineration, they contribute to pollution. Landfills are increasingly filled with synthetic textiles that do not decompose, while incineration releases toxic fumes and microplastics into the atmosphere.

Another significant environmental issue related to synthetic fabrics is the release of microplastics. Synthetic fibres shed small plastic particles during washing, which enter waterways and eventually end up in the oceans. Studies have shown that a single load of laundry can release millions of microplastic fibres, which can be ingested by marine life, eventually making their way into the human food chain. According to a 2017 study by the University of California, approximately 35% of the microplastics found in the world’s oceans come from the laundering of synthetic textiles.

Health Risks of Synthetic Fabrics

In addition to their environmental impact, synthetic fabrics also pose potential risks to human health. The chemicals used in the production of synthetic fibres, such as formaldehyde and various petrochemical derivatives, can have harmful effects on both workers in the textile industry and consumers who wear the clothing. Formaldehyde, for example, is commonly used in the finishing process of synthetic fabrics to make them more wrinkle-resistant and durable. Prolonged exposure to formaldehyde has been linked to respiratory issues, skin irritation, and an increased risk of certain cancers (International Agency for Research on Cancer, 2012).

Furthermore, synthetic fabrics are not as breathable as natural fibres, which can lead to skin irritation, rashes, and discomfort. For instance, polyester and nylon do not allow moisture to evaporate as easily as cotton or wool, leading to a build-up of sweat and bacteria on the skin. This can exacerbate conditions such as eczema and cause allergic reactions. Some individuals may also experience sensitivities to the dyes and finishes used in synthetic garments, leading to contact dermatitis or other skin conditions.

The use of synthetic fibres in activewear has also raised concerns. Materials like Lycra and spandex, which are made from petroleum-based compounds, are often used in tight-fitting garments like leggings and sports bras. These fabrics do not allow for adequate airflow, potentially leading to issues such as fungal infections or rashes due to the retention of heat and moisture. Additionally, the chemicals used in the production of these fabrics may leach out over time, exposing consumers to potentially toxic substances.

The Transition to Sustainable Alternatives

Given the environmental and health concerns associated with synthetic fabrics, there has been a growing movement toward more sustainable alternatives, aka going back to the fibres that we have been using for thousands upon thousands of years. In recent years, many companies have started to explore natural and eco-friendly fabrics, such as organic cotton, hemp, and bamboo, as well as innovative materials like Tencel (lyocell) and wool. These alternatives aim to reduce the environmental footprint of textile production and improve the health and safety of the people who wear them.

Conclusion

The widespread use of synthetic fabrics in the global fashion industry has been a driving force behind the accessibility and affordability of clothing for decades. However, this shift has also come at a significant cost to the environment and human health. The production of synthetic fibres is heavily reliant on fossil fuels, contributing to climate change and environmental pollution, while their non-biodegradable nature has led to the accumulation of microplastics in our oceans and ecosystems. Additionally, the chemicals used in the manufacturing of synthetic fabrics pose risks to both workers and consumers.

The role of patents and trademarks was crucial in accelerating the transition to synthetic fabrics, as they allowed companies to protect their innovations, monopolize production, and stimulate further development of these materials. While synthetic fibres revolutionized the fashion industry, their environmental and health impacts demand that the industry shift toward more sustainable alternatives. The transition from synthetic fabrics to more eco-friendly materials is essential to mitigate the harm caused by fast fashion and ensure a healthier planet for future generations. The fashion industry must take responsibility for its environmental footprint and embrace innovations that prioritize both sustainability and human health.

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